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Written by Alicia Standforth
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Aperitifs are drunk to set the palate tingling, and this is best
achieved by a cool glass of something bubbly. It need not be champagne
but could be one of the many less expensive sparkling wines. French
Crement de Bourgogne is made in exactly the same way from the same
grapes as Champagne, but because the grapes are grown in a sunnier
region of France the wine is softer and less acidic. Another
interesting choice is Blanquette de Limoux from the south of France.
There are a number of softer, more exotically fruity sparkling wines
from the New World, especially Australia. These and other sparkling
wines make delicious aperitifs when mixed with fresh fruit juices such
as mango, orange or peach, or with cordials such as blackcurrant, or
liqueurs such as Cointreau and Creme de Cassis.
For those who prefer still wine, look for whites with a light
fruitiness and fresh acidity. It is unwise to serve a heavily oaked
wine as an aperitif. Choose instead one of the newer crisp,
interesting wines from Eastern Europe; they are inexpensive and made in
a light, fresh style from characterful grapes such as slightly spicy
Pinot Gris or aromatic Gewurztraminer or Muscat.
Fine German wines make good aperitifs thanks to their outstanding
fruitiness, fresh acidity, low alcohol content (around 8%) and moderate
sweetness. Look for those from the Mosel region made from the classic
Riesling grape and labeled Kabinett or Spatlese.
Vermouth and similar herby fortified wines are somewhat out of fashion,
but a glass of tangy Fino or Manzanilla sherry, or even a glass of
chilled white port, whet the appetite and also go surprisingly well
with first courses such as seafood or soup. For some elegant winter
pre-dinner warming, choose the drier versions of the darker, nuttier
Amontillado and Oloroso sherries, which are a real treat.
Entertaining Wines
First begin with the lighter styles of wine and move onto those with
more body. This usually means a light white or red with the starter and
a heavier white or red (possibly one that has been oak-aged) to
accompany the main course. Dry wines should be drunk before sweet, so
stay with drier wines with the cheese and before the pudding, unless
you intend to open a bottle of port with the cheese, in which case it
should follow the pudding. But many people prefer cheese after the
pudding even when they are not going to drink port with it.
A final pudding course can be accompanied by a sweet dessert wine, even
a relatively inexpensive sweet Muscatel from Spain. Always aim for a
wine that is sweeter than the pudding, otherwise the wine will appear
thin and tart. This may appear an extravagance, but many sweet wines
are available in half bottles. Many New World late harvest Muscats and
Rieslings are rich enough to be dessert wines.
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